Nell Grace helps revitalize Jackson’s once-thriving Farish Street District
By Vickie D. King | Originally published by Mississippi Today
Stepping into Nell Grace is less like walking into a restaurant and more like melting into the soft, unhurried warmth of Big Mama’s embrace.
The restaurant is a hidden gem located at 111 East Church St., in downtown Jackson’s historic Farish Street District. And it is the vision of a father and son, Marc and Devan Rowe, who opened Nell Grace in January.
Marc Rowe named the eatery in honor of his mother, Eunella “Nell” Rowe, and his daughter, Grace.
“Naming the restaurant was my way of preserving my mother’s legacy,” Marc said, his voice filled with deep admiration and reverence. “I wanted her name to live on through something that brings people together. When guests come through our doors, share a meal and feel at home, that reflects the kind of spirit she had.”
Marc moves with a determined grace, disappearing into the buzz of the kitchen to check on meal preps before emerging to visit individual tables, smiling, chatting, asking diners if they are enjoying their meals. In one section, a large group celebrating a family member’s birthday sat before a floor-to-ceiling mural of a woman frozen in song, an artistic heartbeat for the room.
On alternating nights, the air is filled with haunting melodies from violinist Daniel Parker and the sultry, late-night smoothness of saxophonist Keith Ward.
“A lot of what people see in me today came from her,” Devan said, reflecting on the deep influence of his grandmother. “She just had this way about her. She connected with people, and she had such a natural gift for making everyone feel comfortable, special and welcome.”
He said watching her taught him how much relationships matter. “The confidence, the way I connect with people, she planted those seeds in me a long time ago.”
Nell Grace has a laid-back, cozy vibe, with customers cradling cocktails while music drifts over tables and soothing aromas waft from the kitchen. Chatter and laughter subside as forks dig into savory Catfish Atchafalaya, steaks, blackened seafood and ribbons of Cajun pasta.
Order up a burger or a variety of shrimp dishes, traditional wings or Cajun loaded fries. Down-home southern side dishes offer a familiar taste of home cooking — bubbling, baked macaroni and cheese, earthy black-eyed peas, golden cornbread, braised southern greens and sweet yams.
As the night deepens, the Rowes encourage diners to make room for warm peach cobbler, New Orleans-style beignets dusted in a snowfall of powdered sugar, delectable cheesecake or the richness of red velvet cake.
“I spent more than 20 years in Atlanta working in entertainment, but something kept pulling me back home,” Devan Rowe said. “I felt like I had learned enough to bring something back home… learned to bring something meaningful back to Jackson.”
Together, the duo is dreaming a renaissance into existence, with plans to revitalize several historic properties in the Farish Street neighborhood, once the bustling hub of Jackson’s Black-owned businesses. Their vision weaves a tapestry of live entertainment, fine dining and cultural pilgrimages to create a destination that celebrates the district’s landmarks.
Devan said his father spent 26 years in child nutrition and the food industry.
“He understood the food and operations side, and I come from the entertainment side,” the son said. “I understood how to create an experience. Nell Grace is where those two worlds come together. To me, it is more than a name. When people walk in, I want them to feel like they’ve stepped into my grandmother’s hugs and welcoming home, not a restaurant.”
Nell Grace hours
Monday-Thursday: 11 a.m.-8 p.m.
Friday-Saturday: 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Sunday: 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
This article was originally published by Mississippi Today and is republished here under a Creative Commons license.
Source: Original Article





